hosiery

hosiery, knit or woven coverings for the feet and legs designed to be worn inside shoes, particularly women’s stockings and tights; also socks for men, women, and children. In Great Britain, hosiery includes all types of machine-knit garments.

In the 8th century bc the Greek poet Hesiod referred to piloi, probably matted from animal hairs, as a lining for shoes. The Romans wrapped their feet, legs, and ankles in long strips of leather or woven cloth. Udones, first mentioned in the 2nd century ad, were cut and sewn from woven fabric, felt, or skins and were pulled over the foot, but they lacked elasticity. Knit socks from between the 3rd and 6th centuries ad have been discovered in Egyptian tombs.

Hand-knit stockings evolved into their modern form by the 17th century. Queen Elizabeth I refused a patent to the inventor of the first knitting machine, the Reverend William Lee, because his stockings were coarser than those of fine silk imported from Spain. His improved model made finer stockings, but he was again refused a patent because of the fear that it would harm hand knitters. Lee died in poverty in France about 1610, but his brother returned to England and began the framework-knitting industry.

Lee’s machine was so well conceived that it was the only knitting machine for centuries. Its general principles are incorporated in all modern machines, and the bearded-spring needle, part of the original model, is still used in machines producing full-fashioned stockings.

Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, then fashioned, or shaped, by hand manipulation and hand seamed up the back. Knitting is back and forth across the fabric (weft knitting) on a straight-bar machine invented in Loughborough, Leicestershire, Eng., by William Cotton in 1864. The stocking is started at the top with the welt, an extra-thick section for gartering. The fabric is shaped by reducing the number of needles at the ankle, then adding needles at the heel, and again reducing the number through the foot.

Seamless stockings are knitted on circular machines, brought out in the mid-19th century. For many years such stockings were a straight, knitted tube that did not fit as well as the full-fashioned, because stitches cannot be added or dropped in circular knitting by machine. But when nylon yarn was introduced in the 1940s its thermoplastic properties enabled the knitted tube to be permanently formed into the desired shape by heating. By the 1950s seamless stockings were so much improved that most women preferred them. In the 1960s a trend developed toward combining stockings into a single garment, panty hose and tights, that reached the waist and covered the feet, legs, and hips.

In 1900 about 88 percent of women’s stockings were cotton, about 11 percent were wool, and about 1 percent were silk. Over the next 35 years silk and artificial silk (rayon) made steady gains, until the introduction of nylon, which almost immediately replaced all of the silk and much of the rayon.

Stocking weight depends on yarn size and the needle spacing of the machine, called gauge. Nylon yarn is measured as denier; the smaller the denier number, the finer the yarn. Gauge is the number of needles per 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in full-fashioned stockings; the higher the gauge number, the closer the stitches. Sheerness depends on both gauge and denier: 60 gauge, 15 denier is closer knit than 51 gauge, 15 denier, and for that reason is less sheer and wears better even though the yarn is the same size; 60 gauge, 30 denier and 51 gauge, 30 denier are heavier and much less sheer.